Use of Dechlor when filling from Hosepipe?

I missed that... sorry...

 

If you are diluting the chorine, as you have described above, then yes, the tap-hose filling is possibly being effective due to this very fact. Good point there. So in essence, we could actually be wasting our dechlorinator. I would never not use it though, because you are never aware of when there may be extra chlorine in the water in any case. I think the general agreement is that we add dechlor to 25litres. (or whatever you change). Actually, I'd be interested to know WHO actually MEASURES their dechlor? An overdose is only considered an overdose in extremely high amounts, so I have never bothered with measuring... I just chuck. (Please don't follow my example)

Now, if you were to throw in Dechlor for the 25litres BEFORE you filled the tank, and the dechlor started working on the ammonia, would it not be safe to sat that this dechlor is now not available to work on the chlorine? It's been "wasted" on the ammonia. In theory, a cycled tank shouldn't have ammonia, but there will always be minute traces of it. So now do you fill up the 25litres, in the hopes that the diluting of the Chlorine will make it safe for the fish for that short period of time, and then add the dechlor after the tank is full?

My current tank is a "high tech" set up, meaning I dose with a fair amount of nutrients and fertilizers... so I am forced to do a 50% water change once a week to reset the balance. I personally empty with the hose, and then refill with the hose. When I turn the tap on, I then add 4 capfuls of Dechlor to my tank, and to date, I have not had any problems with my fish. Whilst I am doing this, I know that the "proper" way is to age the water, and I think I mentioned that I will be going the aged water method in a few months time when I am up and running with the discus. You see it also comes down to a catch 22... aging water is good practice, but you are paying for electricity to keep that water moving (no point in aging stagnant water). However Dechlor allows us to use Tap water "almost" immedietely... but the drawback is paying for the dechlor.

 

That's the type of post that I was looking for that took 7 pages! Wow. Just a few notes on personal experience with a hose pipe straight from the tap Thanks @Zoom

 

i think this was a very very good and useful thread which between @Big G and @Zoom have made perfect sense to me, i do think that from now on i will be doing water changes using the hose pipe method, while adding a reasonable amount of dechlorinator (just over what is recommended - its a small price to pay in exchange for not having to carry buckets about) to the water column just befor filling up.

thanks @Laure for bringing this up.

 

I too am guilty of using a pipe from the tap.
I add the dechlor in as soon as I've done the water change because I have to hold the pipe and can't reach the dechlor immediately. Time frame is 2-5 mins.
I also switch off all equipment when doing a water change and only switch it back on after I've added the water.

 

Not guilty; clever

It's the way to go. Buckets are out!

 

I asked Dr Bodo Schnell of Sera what his input on the subject is and here is his remarks.

So, it seems like you guys is right, as long as the Cl levels is not too high (nose test?) in the tap water and that you distribute the conditioner evenly in the tank before commencing with adding the tap water slowly. If you have very poor oxygen levels, overdosing could be a problem.

One day, when I have a big tank, I will also use the hose method. ;-)

 

HeeHee @Laure.

I originally tried to tell you in my first few posts that I use the hosepipe method... but obviously didn't realise the extend of information you wanted.

Nice infor Tom

 

great info dude.. +1

 

@Tom.K thank you so much for making the effort to get some expert answers. I think all the questions have now been answered. So the procedure to follow would be:
1. Syphon out water
2. Add dechlor to cover the amount of water removed (refer to instructions on bottle, this varies per brand)
3. Stir up the tank a bit if you have already switched off the circulation/filters/etc, if not, switch those off now
4. Slowly add water straight from the tap
5. Switch on filtration

What to watch out for:
1. Don't do very large water changes straight from the tap. Up to 25% is probably safe
2. In the middle of winter the tap water can be ice cold in many parts of the country, and this could impact the tank's temperature significantly
3. Try to ensure your filtration is off so that none of the tap water come into contact with your bio media

Anything else anybody would like to add?

For large WC I would still use my water preparation drum (holds 240l), because for this amount of water spending money on dechlor can become fairly expensive in the long run.

Then, this is not a sales pitch as I am no way affiliated, but I can recommend Seachem Prime as the most economical dechlorinator on the market. It treats the most water for the least amount of money. Seems expensive when you buy it as a 500ml bottle costs over R300, but 5ml treats 200l, so for R300 you can treat 20 000l, or alternatively, 1.5 cents per litre.

 

Or to put it simply... if you change 100litres of water a week, your bottle will last you 200 water changes. If you changing 100 litres a week, that bottle will last you just under 4 years! (Is that right @Laure??)

 

@Zoom...spot on!

 

I use Prime,on my 6ft tank, 600l power head to get the tap water to the tank. i do 1/3 W/C every week and use two caps of prime, been doing this for the last year and i have had no problems with my fish, there is just a 3 degree temp change in winter. I use the power head cuz the water goes slowly in to the tank, abt 1hr to fill, i add the prime directly to the remanding water in the tank.

 

Damn... I been using the wrong stuff!!!

 

so true.

Anyone knows which LPS in Pretoria keeps Seachem Prime? (I haven't seen it at my LPS)

Thanks,