Ryan J's Amano Style Tank

Discussion in 'Members Systems' started by ryanj252, Jan 7, 2011.

  1. Mic.E

    Mic.E

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    By not adding CO2, my geuss is that youll battle with algea. Your plant growth wont be fast enought to utilise the nutrients from the pfp with the high light, which will result in algea taking over? Maybe some of the more experienced fishkeepers can correct me if im wrong
     
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  3. Laure

    Laure Cyano Terminator

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    I certainly agree that growth will be much better with CO2 addition, but this is not necessary, so long as your lights are not too strong. Plants will utilise nutrients such as N, P, K and traces regardless of CO2 addition.

    Light drives the speed of growth. More light = faster growth. But in order to grow, the plants need unlimited supplies of nutrients, including CO2. With high light, the plants grow so fast that there is just not enough CO2 in the water, and as a result you will need to add CO2 by means of a pressurised CO2 injection system. Failing this, the plants will suffer as they cannot build cells without enough carbon, and the end result, to make a long story short, will be algae all over the place.
     
  4. OP
    ryanj252

    ryanj252 DIY Guy

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    Wow. Now thats informative. Im sure i read that somewhere but i was probably too long or full of "Higher Grade" words :)

    I really dont wana go the CO2 route with this tank, as its still my 1st. Ive ordered to 2X T5 lights from LampWorld, and will add that to my current Sylvania 18W GROWLUX. Im estimating around 45W in total. Will be getting seachem substrate aswell as flourish and flourish Excel from LPS. Ive decided to leave the PFP/Chemicult for a future tank. Dont wana get bored TOO soon.

    But thanx for the Algea warning. Is there perhaps a certain measure where i can have goodlighting, substrate, fertz with NO CO2 and NOT battle with algea?

    Quick Q...does anyone know what the name of the stringy plant is, here in the left front corner? Excuse bad stitching and photo work...
    my tank.jpg

    my tank.jpg
     
  5. OP
    ryanj252

    ryanj252 DIY Guy

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    PIC UPDATE:

    My New T5 lights.
    Image0085.jpg
    And then my DIY background. Will be adding more poly to they flat sections then continue carving down.
    2.jpgImage0092.jpg1.jpg
    Getting cement today, so that the leaching process can begin, while i empty my tank out. Fish for sale soon LOLz...

    2.jpg

    Image0085.jpg

    Image0092.jpg

    1.jpg
     
  6. Vis

    Vis Gerhard

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    Hey Ryan, you gonna show us a diy for the background and include some prices?
     
  7. OP
    ryanj252

    ryanj252 DIY Guy

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    Yes, yes i definitely will! There are so many guys saying "Do this" "Use that". And ive decided to just do it myself and see what happens. I just got the cement now. R40 for 5kg.

    Afterward, i had like a 1 hour discussion with the guys at Decro Paints. I explained what i needed and how i would use it and they recommended, "Masonry Waterproofing" to me. Its the only non toxic/membraneless/colour variety option there is. They didnt agree on acrylic paint, as the one guy said its water based and would degrade in water over a certain time. So this water proofing is basically a coloured powder, that you ad to a liquid called "Cobond" that creates a paste that you paint on. Its used to damp and water proof walls. It'll cost me R140 altogether for a 1L Cobond Liquid and 1kg Masonry Waterproofing.

    The other option is the fibre paint(used on roofs) but that only comes in white, charcoal, and red.

    I really would like to speak to @azurekoi about his use of acrylic paint, since they said they WOULD NOT recommend it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2011
  8. dragon8

    dragon8 shapeshifter

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    A Ryan, i few months back i chatted to the guys at the dekro lab (sammie) and he said that nothing they make is suitable for what we want to do...he said the closest is their white epoxy paint which is used for drinking tanks but that tinting it might not be safe...

    erm i suggest you check out that thread about eco paints(Khalid) rather, these paints are endorsed by the two oceans aquarium and they actually used it in a malawi tank 18 months ago and the fish are still healthy and their prices are very reasonable, +/- R200 for 500ml (the ladys name is Ronelle i have her number for you and she is helpfull)...

    am keen to see your background...kudos

    my 3d is completely epoxied, just just do the cutting in(neating up) and siliconing then the water test, i'd say that the pond sealer (though not cheap) is the way to go, simply because there are so many ppl using it in their ponds..
     
  9. OP
    ryanj252

    ryanj252 DIY Guy

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    Yeah im going for the Pond Sealer. The Masonry waterproofing is used for ponds aswell, its a flexible matting. Remember, i only want a safe way to cover the same. I dont REALLY need to seal it. So to clear things out:

    - Use Fiber Matting Sealer - Used to seal and waterproof roofs, walls, tiles and koi ponds. Its non-toxic. Comes in Red,Charcoal, White (about R200)
    OR
    - Use COPROX Masonry Waterproofing with Cobond Liquid - Use to damp and waterproof masonry (cement). Used for outside, inside wall, ponds, pools. Comes in about 12 Natural Colours (about R140)
    OR
    - Use COPROX Waterproofing DualCoat with Cobond Liquid - Cement and Waterproof in 1. Same use as above. Comes in about 12 Natural Colours (about R180)
    OR
    -Use Epoxy and Hardener - Resistant sealer over the cement layer. Comes in black and white only, from what i know. (about R1200)
    OR
    -Use Oxides - Powder colour your cement mix. Comes in about 5 colours. (R15 for a 500g packet)
    OR
    -Use Acrylic Non-Toxic Paint - Not waterproof but does come in smaller packets with more colour variations. (Price Not Sure) (Ignore more my previous disagreement with this paint, the guy at the store made a mistake)

    That should clear things!
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2011
  10. dragon8

    dragon8 shapeshifter

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    keen to see how it turns out...you cement yet???

    when can i come see???
     
  11. OP
    ryanj252

    ryanj252 DIY Guy

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    PIC UPDATE:
    Got my last supplies:

    sup.jpg

    Marine Silicone Sealer - R38
    Dala Craft Paint - R25
    Dala Student Paint - R23

    sup.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2011
  12. tracyp

    tracyp Lotus

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    watching your thread with great interest! thanks for all the pics!
     
  13. OP
    ryanj252

    ryanj252 DIY Guy

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    PIC UPDATE:
    Finally got the last of my supplies for my DIY Background

    sup.jpg

    Marine Silicone Sealer - R38
    Dala Craft Paint - R25
    Dala Student Paint - R23

    The Dala paint really works for me, as it is both waterproof and non toxic! I took a light Grey and orange rust. Im not going to tell you how il use them though. You'll have to wait and see :)

    @dragon8 - I havent cemented yet. Will be adding extra sections tonight then silicone pieces to main background. Cementing will begin Thursday.

    ADMIN please delete 1st post, keep this one. I dont know what happended here....

    sup.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2011
  14. OP
    ryanj252

    ryanj252 DIY Guy

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    PIC UPDATE:

    Adding some depth to DIY Background.

    Image0099.jpgImage0101.jpg

    Just cut out irregular rock-like shapes and silicone'd them. Didnt worry with too much detail, as the cement would smooth most things out. Also keep in mind that just after you applied your third coat, you can start adding textures.
    Eg:
    -Use dry brush to create a scratchy rock surface.
    -Use a needle to draw cracks in the rock.
    -Or When hard, use sand paper to smooth or sharpen edges.

    Image0099.jpg

    Image0101.jpg
     
  15. shihr

    shihr Glosso

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    try using a lighter / candle to make natural looking pits on the foam.. ive done that b4.. looks pretty good..
     
  16. OP
    ryanj252

    ryanj252 DIY Guy

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    Thanx @shihr. Il be sure to try that out with my next design. Ive got this awesome rooted tree design that i wana do when the opportunity arises again.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 2, 2016
  17. boebie

    boebie

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    Well done Ryan!
     
  18. WaRn00b

    WaRn00b

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    Wow.. interesting stuff dude.

    Can't wait to see the end result.
     
  19. OP
    ryanj252

    ryanj252 DIY Guy

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    PIC UPDATE:

    So my 2nd coat of cement is done...
    Image0102.jpg
    And then Sunday My 3rd coat was Finished.
    Image0106.jpg
    For my 3rd coat, I added some building sand for texture. Looks so good!!
    Now i just have to do the detailed carving and painting and then im done!!!
    It should look something like this...(This is just a Pre-vis i did in photoshop)
    Redone.jpg
    Looks awesome does'nt it!? I cant wait to get it stuck in.

    A few tips when doing yours:
    1. Paint the cement on in thick blobs then smear it out.
    2. Brush the brush to add texture to the cement, remember to paint in ONE direction
    3. Dont work in direct sunlight.
    4. Dont allow the cement to cure in sunlight or hot conditions. Every now and then spray the cement with a fine mist of water. If the cement dries too fast, it will crack like mine did. But this can even be part of your texture, but leave the cracking for the last layer.
    5. Take your time in making it look good, you will be rewarded!

    Cheers :)

    Image0102.jpg

    Image0106.jpg

    Redone.jpg
     
  20. Donny

    Donny

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    Dam this is looking awesome, when you completely done you will have to do a sticky thread on this.
     
  21. OP
    ryanj252

    ryanj252 DIY Guy

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    Not a problem. If who ever is in charge with that...I can do one.
     

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