ok so heres some pics of the progress.. i got some design flaws on this build.. but anyways.. it should be strong enough.. i havnt finished yet but heres an idea Tv used to makesure the glue bonds: painting the doors the cabinet upside down with the bottom sealed with varnish: i totally forgot to cut these holes.. must say it was quite a mission BUT i did it! wood filler: everything glued and screwed tomorrow i will sand it down, add the support structure in the middle and sides then hopefully i can paint the first coat as well! we'll see.. ---------- Post added at 21:11 ---------- Previous post was at 21:11 ---------- oh and i decided to buy this: i know it goes against my original plan with the internal filter etc.. but the perspex price and pump etc was going to be abt the same price of this massive filter and the minimizing of real estate was not worth it in the end..
Nice build there @shihr. I'm going to make one tiny suggestion... The base of your cabinet is chipboard (I think- but even if it isn't, this is still a necessity.) Little unknown fact about most wood (pine, meranti, supawood, and especially chipboard)... the main front and back of the boards is generally pretty resistant to water, and if sealed properly, can last you years and years. The other sides, i.e the edges is where water is a definate no no. The ends of the wood grain is exposed, and acts as a syringe. I would suggest putting an epoxy/resin on the bottom of your legs. Silicon is an option, but will come off fairly easily, so not ideal. If you think of a door, you assume there is only 4 sides to the door, and when you varnish or paint, you usually only concentrate on these 4. But did you know that there is another 2 "hidden" sides to the door... the top and bottom. ALL door manufacturers will tell you that the MOST water damage to a door comes in through the top, or the bottom. The same principle applies here to what I am trying to explain. You gonna have water collecting and splashing at the bottom... so the wood will expand. Another option would be to get a few rubber legs (something like 7-10mm thick) that you can put on the underside. Make sure you put enough on to spread the load. This will actually lift the entire cabinet about 5mm off the ground, so water sitting on the floor will never be in contact with the wood.
thanks! crit taken.. ---------- Post added at 22:11 ---------- Previous post was at 22:11 ---------- i can also see as the varnish is sucked up bu the edges of the bottom.. i'll try add more varnish till it cant suck up any more..
Yes, you can also do that. It might take a few coats, and then add another 2 coats after you think it's enough just to be on the safe side.
wow.. excuse my shocking english in the above post hehe..but i guess u know what i mean.. thats what happens when u type and watch tv at the same time
If you really want a good soak, use thinned out varnish for the first few coats, then switch to the normal stuff.
looks good man, but i would always be doubting the stand, i would have just made a stand from steel and cladded it with the wood. or if i used only wood i would use some timber beams to support the whole thing maybe 50x50 timber or the likes. anyways its gonna look stunning mate.
supa wood is super strong but super absorbent of water.. just as long as i seal it properly it should be fine.. also rem that i glued and screwed everything together.. there will be support beams inside using pine so it should be fine..also if u look at the stands at the shops, they made of chipboard or superwood as well.. the look im trying to get wont be good with the steel frame so cant go that route..
heres an update: did the support structures today..also did wood filler and sand..wood filler and sand.. what a process..
You absolutely correct Shihr. My Jebo (300litre) stand is ONLY supawood coated in a resin type epoxy. I seriously thought that at that kind of weight I would need a steel support inside, but Jebo guaranteed that if I screwed everything together the way they advise, it will work perfectly fine. (no glue, just screws). The whole thing came flat wrapped. (i.e not assembled)
and if u use some imagination: now all thats left is to fill and sand and then lastly paint..imo is such a pain in the... i used 18mm supawood.. flippin strong and heavy as hell!! ---------- Post added at 23:11 ---------- Previous post was at 23:11 ---------- if u cant see it yet, i want the stand to look something like an ADA type stand :
yep they flippin expensive thats why i decided to build my own one.. ok so hung the doors: but i noticed a problem.. is it normal for the doors to not be aligned with the sides of the cabinet??? this is really fustrating because i cant get them to be exact is there different hinges for different doors etc? anyways, heres a pic of the 1st coat: one more coat and this baby is ready for action!!
ADA can put their tanks on bricks and it would still look stunning. Nice build you have going here shihr. Do you cut everything with jigsaws?
thanks vis na, i had everything precut..i only cut the moon shape holes with a jig saw..also just realised that the supawood changed shape slightly when it was in my car when it was hot thats why it didn match up perfectly..and thats why i had to use filler.. filler is such a shlep.. and if not done properly like what happened to me shows all over..
i did some fine grained sanding last night to make it extra smooth so just one more coat and its ready.. it should be pretty glossed as well!
