Waterflow for a planted tank

Hi,im starting a 120 L planted tank but am a bit unsure of waterflow rate.The reason im asking is because i have a spare liquid power filter pushing 1000 L/H.What is the best or near perfect flowrate for planted tank?

 

minimal!

 

That would depend on whether you have fish in the tank as well and what type of fish, the number of fish etc

 

Oh yeah,im thinking a community setup of swordtails,danios,tetras and corys..about +-25 fish.Would it work if i connect a spraybar to my power filter or do i need a new filter to get minimal flow.

 

a powerhead isnt a a filter - it just moves water. some might have a sponge attached but thats 99% mechanical fltration. you need to get a REAL filter with biological filtration

 

As henk has said, most powerheads are purely for moving water. You do get internal filters that can take ceramic rings and bio balls for the biological filtration, but these are usually rather bulky. I would suggest you get a canister filter, or hook up a sump.

The nice thing about a canister is that they don't spray too hard, and hence will provide adequate water flow for the plants.

 

Stupid Question here and I don't mean to hijack at all.
but what a bout a HOB filter would that work (depending on the size of the tank of course)?

 

I've never used one as they can also be very bulky... If it is rated to turn your tanks water 5 times an hour, then yes. Let's say you have a 400litre tank, that means you want a 2000l/p/h filtration system, right? I think a hob filter that size would be almost as big as the tank?

 

no zoom, that is not true...i have a 1600l/h HOB, its not that big...but depends where the tank is situated and also where the filter is going to be ( side or back of the tank )...i also have a 2 800l/h HOB filters and they are relatively small....

 

As I said, never used them, never even looked at them. My tank is a complete unit with a canopy that cannot be cut to suit them. I was just assuming their size based on the size of my 1100l/p/h internal filter. (which was pretty bulky.)

I've moved onto Canisters now. Flipping easy to maintain.

 

yeah, thats why i didn't opt to go the internal filter route, i also didn't want to see a filter in the tank...also, my tank is fairly narrow compared to the standard size, so an internal filter would use up to much space in my tank...but from what i hear. they keep the water crystal clear...so, i added activated charcoal to mine, my water is now crystal clear...

 

OK,I think i understand and i like the canister idea.What size canister should i get for 120L.This will be my first attempt for planted and community aquarium and if successful im thinking of changing my 650 L malawi setup also into a fully planted community tank.Thanx for responses.

 

If you might be changing the 650l to a planted tank, then I would consider getting a canister filter for that sized tank. (Unless of course the 650 has a sump??) They are pretty pricey, and you don't want to get one for the 120l and then discover it's useless

(Is that Zaf I see reading this thread?? Is you back?)

 

I think there is alot of oppinions floating around on this subject.Even the experts dissagree,but most,for example Tom Barr,aims for 10 times the total tank volume.
Reason:
To circulate nutrients,CO2 effectifly and efficiently around the tank,so no dead spots is created.Over sized external filters is the norm,with submerged spraybars along the length of the tank for the outlet.And even "coralia type" vibration/flow pumps for a gentle,yet hi flow rate.
But every tank is differnt,so exsperiment.Just remember to keep the water moving.

 

Sorry i dont know if this is hijacking the thread but it seems relevant. Im very confused with the whole filtration aeration of the tank. If i have a powerhead filtering my 72l tank it does about 320l p/hour and has a filter in the unit with charcoal which keeps the tanks crystal clear it has a unit to allow it to aerate do i have to aerate or can i just have the powerhead filtering the tank.

 

hi snyper, there is an exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide at the surface of the water in the tank, when the water surface is broken carbon dioxide is released from water into the air and the oxygen from the air is absorbed in by the water, if there is no surface agitation then this exchange would not be able to take place and as a result could kill your fish...but i read that powerheads do oxygenate the water, so i guess you are okay

 

I believe powerheads oxygenate because they cause movement of water at the surface... which goes back to the first theory you described JesseG.

You are correct. The reason we actually put airstones into thea tank is 1) for visual effect, if that floats your boat, and 2) the bubble breaking the surface causes the oxygen to dissolve into the water.

 

Not that it matter to much but doesnt the bubble in the water also cause oxygen to enter the water on its way to the surface?

 

I've heard conflicting theories on this... and more people tend to lean towards NO.

 

Air is oxygen right? so air bubble would mean an oxygen bubble, i would say that you are right FreakSA...