Ro vs activated carbon

I have been reading up on RO VS Activated Carbon, and all the lit says that Carbon removes the Chlorine and other waste.

What I am curious about is what makes RO different? I currently keep water in plastic drums with normal carbon/air filters(corner filters filled with carbon) in them for a few days before adding it to my tanks. As I am planning to introduce discus soon, I want know if it necessary to install an RO.

Also I adjust the pH to 6.8 using Sodium Biphosphate, but the quantities I need are working out a bit pricey (about 4 tsp per 60l, I use 240l a week) Is there any thing else I can use or is there somewhere I can buy bulk?

Keep it wet

Vince

ps I am distraught about the "Black List"...I do not know what to do with my Jewels...

 

RO units usually have a sediment filter as a first stage (doesn't make a difference to you really) and then have a carbon block as a second stage which removes the chlorine etc. After those 2 stages the water is basically "prepped" to go through the RO membrane without clogging it too much so basically it has gone through carbon and had chlorine removed even without the RO part. The RO basically filters out any minerals left in the water.

You could try asking a chemist to order you sodium biphosphate in bulk.

 

Hi Rory

Thanks for the speedy reply!

So in a nutshell, will carbon filtered water be ok for discus?

V

 

I can't really comment on that to be honest but as far as I know the effluent from an RO unit (which is basically just water gone through carbon) is pretty good for using on discus tanks.

 

Thanx a mil!

 

scaly, it will all depend on what your water params are like to start with. If you have very hard alkaline water i would suggest getting an RO unit. i have kept discus in those conditions but they just dont seem to thrive. You should also not use RO water only, you should mix 2/3 RO with 1/3 tap (depending on how hard etc you water is) and then aerate for a couple of days to get a stable ph and get rid of chlorine. the main thing to try and do is to keep the ph as stable as possible, even if it is at 7.5+. I am sure you have read that discus need great water quality so 50% weekly water changes (atleast) is esential. This is all IMO, but it have worked for me for 5 years+

 

hey vince, i suggest you perhaps consider continuing with the drums and aging the water while filtering with carbon. to get your water quickly safe for addition to your aquariums, i strongly recommend Kent chlorinex (5ml treats 300L)- I used this product myself just last week and setup a 4ft for some XL angels and within 6hours after setup I introduced the fish - did nothing special to the water.

Why do you lower the pH to 6.8?

when purchasing the discus remember to ask what the water parameters are. you might find that its standard tap water parameters if you're purchasing from one of the LFS's - your aquarium should then have similar parameters. Once introduced you can gradually adjust the pH and Hardness to suite the discus - I use this method with all my discus.

i dont think you should be stressing yourself about the texas and jewel cichlids - just dont sell them as thats a no-no here and make sure you dont accidently release any into local waters...

 

Thanks for all the info.

My tap water has a pH of 8 and all the lit. i have read suggest lowering the pH to levels closer to 6. The main reason is to keep the fish is a heatly environment. As far as I understand, "bugs" battle to survive in low pH water? Which keeps the fish healthy. I have had an ich outbreak before (after moving the fish to a bigger tank- I think the were stressed) and was able to sort it out, but it was a living nightmare seeing my fishies peppered with white spots. They all survived, but I think prevetion is better than cure.

Nice tank -Singularity...I think I should befriend Delilah as well. Really healthy looking plants!! Your discus look quite young? Have the paired yet? I have arranged with my lfs for 5 discus from a breader in 4-fourways which keeps his pH at about 6.8 (so I am told) and hope to collect them end of Jan. I will be getting them straight form the breeder.

As far as the hardness is concerend, I don't know how to check that, but being in JHB, I find that soap lathers relatively ok ( ??!!?? ), so I am assuming that its not too hard :wondering:

 

your LFS should be able to supply you with a good hardness (dGH) test kit - you need check your water hardness especially for the discus if you want to provide the best environment for them...

discus water parameters range should be:
Total Hardness 1 - 4 °dGH
pH 5.0 - 7.0
Temperature 28-30°C

ps: whereabout in westdene are you? I'm in the area every now and then and would like to pop in and have a look at your aquariums one evening or weekend... pm me your address and number

 

Scaly they were young when i bought them the two PB was 2" and the leopard 3". 2 Of them have since paired up but i will not breed them. I am going to be importing fish from malaysia...

 

My RO/water distribution system is up and running...only flooded everything once so far...

Having said that I installed a "shower drain" in the corner where my tanks are. I just need to put in a retaining barrier (ALU strip stuck with silicone) and I should be flood proof...thank heavens for tiled floors.

There is quite a lot of waste water from the RO... I am going to run this into the garden...should keep thing quite green this winter. Is there any reason why I should not use the effluent in the garden?

Keep it wet!

Scaly

 

Great!

No reason at all not to use the effluent in the garden.