New 500L setup - Advice needed Please

Discussion in 'Beginner Discussions' started by Martin, Nov 17, 2009.

  1. Martin

    Martin

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    Hello Everybody,

    Like I said in my introduction, I have a 2.1L*0.45W*0.48H mirror top tank which is currently housing Malawi which is actually doing great because they are breeding on there own and fry is actually growing and surviving and breeding themselves again without alot attention from me.

    I do not have anything against Malawi's but I just like Tropical fish more.

    I have a problem with plants and that why I need help and advice.

    Here is how my setup is currently working.

    Water;
    I am using borehole water. I had the water test last week at a Pet Shop in Polokwane and the PH is 7,0.

    Gravel;
    I am using River sand, the one they use for building, one I washed it for hours until all the debri and dust was gone and the water was clear.

    Lightning;
    Currently I am using Cool White Flouresent tubes, one 4ft and one 2ft.

    Oxygen;
    Daul outlet air pump with two air stones.

    Filtration;
    I have a build in Box filter in the back of the one side of the tank. The box is devided into 3 compartments. The lefthand compartment have a grid as a inlet on the bottom. The righthand compartment has a 50mm pvc pipe running along the back of the tank all the way the the other side with a grid on the end for a inlet. this means I have two inlets to filter, one on each side of the tank. Both the side compartments overflow into the centre compartment, where i have from top to bottom, filter wool, charcoal, hair curlers of different sizes fitted into each other acting as Bioballs and lastly right at the bottom a 1500L pump returning the water to a outlet in the centre of the tank.

    I want setup a planted community tank.

    Can you guys please advice me on what is needed and need to be change in my tank to achive this.

    For me the biggest challenge is the get plants growing in the tank. I do not know what I am doing wrong but they just do not last more than a month.

    Thanks

    Martin
     
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  3. Sean J

    Sean J

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    I'd say that your lighting is the biggest deficiency on your tank at the moment. General rule of thumb is for you to have at least 2- 3 watts of light per gallon of water (4 liters).

    I'd also say that standard T8 tubes are pretty useless. They do not give off enough light. Rather go the T5 route. They are thinner than the T8's but their light output in Lumens is far greater.

    You have a 500L tank. You should have at least 300watts of light above it for decent plant growth.

    Secondly, fertilizers. Do some research into the "Estimative Index". Or look at Prof Bellstedt's range of plant nutrition.

    And finally, Co2 is a must in any high light environment. Look at the DIY route, but on a tank that big, it will be messy and cause pain. My suggestion would be to look at pressurized Co2. Also remember that if you are dosing Co2, the surface of the water should never be broken. IE: No bubbles from the filter inlet or from an airstone as this will allow the Co2 to dissolve from the water. Just make sure there is some sort of surface agitation, but not enough to break the surface.

    Also, if you are not dosing the tank with any medication, then it is advisable to remove the Activated Carbon from the filter. It will absorb all the heavy metals and such from the water until it cannot anymore, then it will slowly start releasing the junk back into the water.

    You might also have to increase the water circulation within the tank. But this can easily be done using one or two powerheads in the tank itself.


    I hope this helps you. But please note that Malawis and plants don't really mix well. Malawis are vegetarians, well, some of them.
     
  4. OP
    Martin

    Martin

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    Hi there,

    Here is some pics of the tank. Not looking to good now but I am hoping to change it soon.

    Thanks

    PIC_0119.jpg

    PIC_0120.jpg

    PIC_0121.jpg
     
  5. Sean J

    Sean J

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    Yes, there is clearly not enough light in there! If I were you, the lighting would be the first thing that I would change. Upgrading that is essential if you want that tank to go planted.
     
  6. Donny

    Donny

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    Let there be light and lots of it :) :) :)
     
  7. OP
    Martin

    Martin

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    Thanks Guys,

    I really appreciate the help.

    Reagarding the T5 Tubes.

    Is there a specific make, model that i should look for and is it availible in hardware stores because up here in Mokopane there is not really a good Pet Shop?

    How about a good substrate? Do I need to use one and what is the best and most easily obtianable substrate to use.

    I am not intended to keep the Malawi's.

    I want to add Tetras, Gouramies, Rainbow sharks, Corrys just to name a few.

    Thx
    :bigsmile:
     
  8. Sean J

    Sean J

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    The substrate is fine. If you get heavy root feeders like Amazon Sword plants, just stick a small nail into the substrate by the roots.

    Any good electric/lighting shop will be able to help you with the T5 Ballasts. Look for the Osram ones. They are pretty good. If you can get dual ballasts, that would help. Ask them if they will wire them up for you too.

    As for the actual tubes, try get osram 6500K tubes or the Sylviana Grolux tubes.
     
  9. Slojo

    Slojo

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    My 5c.

    6500k is named Daylight by some manufacturers and 4000k cool white.
    Also priced metal Halides - 150W just about 15 Mins ago at R+-600.00 from one of my clients.
     
  10. Sean J

    Sean J

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    That's not a bad price on the MH's slojo. It is not necessary for MH's on a tank that's less than 600mm tall though. It would be complete overkill. T5's would be ideal on a 450mm height to 500mm height.
     
  11. Laure

    Laure Cyano Terminator

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    My few observations on these discussions:

    1. Depends if you want carpet plants, then 45cm is maximum for T5. Anything over need HID.
    2. I would suggest start off with 2WPG and this allow more control for a new setup as growth rate is slower and problems appear slower and gives you more time to manage them.
    3. Obviously pick your plants according to your light setup.
    4. With 2WPG you can get away with Excel dosing. Pressurized CO2 is a big investment and should only be considered once you got the hang of growing plants.
    5. River sand is fine
    6. Test the borehole water for kh and gh. Also you may find higher than expected levels of disolved heavy metals.
     
  12. Sean J

    Sean J

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    I agree 100% with Laure except on some of Point number 3... Dosing excell in a 500l tank is going to be BLOODY expensive. You might as well get the Co2 setup and save alot in the long run. Besides, every now and then Excel becomes as scarce as chickens teeth. You'd be better served making the investment of the pressurized Co2 system and run it at half what you would if the tank is heavily planted.
     
  13. Laure

    Laure Cyano Terminator

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    Yes you are right excel in that amount of water is expensive. I think the critical part is carbon source is more important that high light. Have a look at many ADA tanks. They have fairly low light but always good carbon source.
     
  14. OP
    Martin

    Martin

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    Hi Guys,

    this might be a siily question, but does 2WPG stands for?

    Thx
     
  15. Dolphin

    Dolphin

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    2 watts of light per gallon (3.8Litres) of aquarium water
     
  16. OP
    Martin

    Martin

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    Thanks.

    Is there is distance that needs to be between the lights and the water surface.

    The reason I am asking this because my tanks has about 80 to 100mm between the sliding mirror lids and won't the heat of the air between the lids and the water surface effect the fish?

    Thx
     
  17. Dolphin

    Dolphin

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    Ideally for T5's the bulb should not be more than 75mm from the water surface in order to achieve max lighting benefits.

    Reflectors are also very important to ensure all the light gets into the tank instead of lighting the room.
     
  18. sailing_derrick

    sailing_derrick

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    Plants in the Malawi Cichlid aquarium can work but be aware that most Malawi cichlids are diggers and occasionally will taste plants, especially if those cichlids are in the mbuna group. Plants that usually do well in African tanks are Valisneria, Anubias and Java fern. The last two are especially good as they can be tied to a rock or a piece of wood and will grow directly on that, therefore eliminating the possibility of being uprooted by the fish. In addition, they are tough plants with a rather nasty taste to the fish.

    Ref- http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/lake_malawi_setup.php
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2009
  19. OP
    Martin

    Martin

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    Hi Guys,

    I am still gagering info for my tank.

    What size Heaters and how many will be sufficient?

    The current pump in the is rated as 1800 L/H and a maximum heat of 1.8m. It is only pumping the water at a head of +- 500mm.

    I can get a Aqua Via power head that is rated at 2000 L/H at a maximum head of 2m. Will this be sufficient or do I need to go bigger?

    Thx
     
  20. Donny

    Donny

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    2 300 watt heaters should be good, i think the pumps you have is also ok, as long as you cycle you tank at least 2 to 3 times a hour.
     
  21. OP
    Martin

    Martin

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    What is the pro's and con's of under gravel filters?

    I spoke to the people at the Pet shop in Pietersburg and they said it's good for plants, but I am not sure if they really know or just want to do the sale?

    Is there any big difference between a T8 and a T5 tube except for the diameter? When I was at the Pet shop today and asked for T5 tubes they did not know what it was and i coudn't find any so far.

    Thx
     

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