Load shedding ons beneficially bacteria

I was wondering if you get loadshedding for 2 hours a day will your bacteria start to die ? How long can it survive without circulation.

 

hi @Reedfish is correct in what he is saying. I think itdepends on the kind of filtration you have chosen to use. A canister filter if openedwhen power is off can be circulated by hand just to get some oxygen in there. Thesame will apply for a sump. Remember the aerobic bacteria requires oxygen tolive and as they get staved of oxygen they will very quickly die.

 

It all depends on your stocking, I'd think. The issue with dying bacteria in this case is that they're not getting oxygen. The more fish you have, the quicker the supply of O2 gets used, the sooner your bacteria tend to perish.

You do get things like battery-operated air pumps to get some circulation and air-exchange going again, which can prolong bacteria life in these loadshedding times.

Regards,

 

Aren't we talking about bacteria inside a canisterfilter that is down ??? The O2 in the tank doesn't matter to me.

I'd say there are different species of bacteria involved. Some will die, some will get in a domant stage and "revive" when oxyginated water is available. When anaerobic bacteria take over, there will be a build up of poisoness stuf (rotting). Than you shouldn't just restart the filter.

 

Whats the verdict on an internal filter? How long will this bacteria take to die off?

 

I've had mine off for 16 hours with no noticeable detrimental effects

 

Until someone monitors the aerobic bacteria in a canister filter with a microscope during a power outage, it's anyone's guess really. Especially as there are so many variables. I would guess that a tank that is overstocked and under-maintained, may be at some risk, but most of the tanks that I've seen on this site should be able to withstand a prolonged outage, as long as the tank is kept oxygenated and alive. Even if the bacteria in the filter take a knock, they should soon repopulate from those living in the tank. For peace of mind, I would add some Seachem Stability after a 12 or more hour outage.

 

Just thinking... You could also disconnect and drain the canister filter after 6 hours or so, then just reconnect. No worries then.

 

Thanx alot for the replys guys !

 

Good point mate.

 

mine was off for 4 hours last night and all was still fine when it came back on

 

My tank is quite new and Seachem stability helped allot with all the recent power outages I have experienced. Almost daily 3 hours at a time, sometimes twice a day for 3 hour periods. Still trying to safe up money for a ups that will at least run my canister filter. but cant determine how long they will run.

 

I think if you can get a UPS to run a tank for 4 hours (heater, filter, air) you'll cover yourself for 99% of all load shedding events.

 

Is there any recommendations on which UPS would work best? Cause that would make my life easier and would reduce the stress, worst fear is getting home having to loose any fish. So far had no casualties.

Think my canister is about 27 watt and my heater is 300 watt

 

A UPS is not the correct item for this application (although it will work).
A UPS is usually used to power critical systems which need uniterrupted continuous power (think computer systems, mission critical equipment (in medical field and so on)).
They are usually designed to run for a short time only and they are expensive.

In your case I would go for an inverter. Even with your heater taken into account a 500W-1000W inverter will do.
How long any system will run does only depend on the battery capacity you have got.
Think of it this way (and I mentioned this before, sorry for the repeat), the power of a car will determine for fast it can go (simplistically speaking), the fuel tank capacity will determine how far it can go in one stretch.
So the inverter power is your car power and the battery capacity is your fuel tank.

Now, what inverter to get (pure sine wave or modified sine wave ....etc) is an alltogether different topic.

 

I had a small PC UPS going unused and it is now powering my air driven filters for the entire 4 hours. (I also have some power HOB and internal filters in some tanks - but at least the air driven filters now stays up...)

I also add a dose of Seachem stability to the larger tanks just after a outage...

There is a company selling 300w inverter/battery systems for R2900 on Gumtree - he also have larger inverters / batteries if needed...

 

Thanks, will then have to save and get inverter/battery systems. Rather be safe than sorry

 

So, let me put this from a scientific point of view. A UPS will definitely be enough to power your system Ortaega.

Going for an inverter on your setup is crazy really completely overdone.

Remember your filter is always working but your heater is not, your heater probably only comes on 5 - 6 times an hour for maybe a minute or two, if you run a [h=1]650VA UPS you can run your setup for over 4 hours, possibly push it to 6 hours maybe. I can get an electrician to confirm this for you.... A 650VA doesn't cost more than R600.00 depending on the brand you want. [/h]To work out your power usage just do the following.


The RMS voltage V in volts is equal to the power P in watts, divided by the power factor PF times the phase current I in amps:
V[SUB](V)[/SUB] = P[SUB](W)[/SUB] / (PF × I[SUB](A)[/SUB] )
So volts are equal to watts divided by power factor times amps.
volts = watts / (PF × amps)
or
V = W / (PF × A)
E.G
V = 330 W / (0.8 × 4.00 A (Not sure what your amp output is, just using an example) ) = 103 V

 

Have you been drinking?
You seem to be very confused.
Please go and ask your electrician to clear up matters regarding UPS and inverters, their usage and prices as well as some basic electrical calculations.
While not everything you posted here is wrong (I guess some comes via a copy and paste from google), what for example is 103V in your example? What does it represent?
It looks like the result of an arbitrary calculation you undertook, but what it is aimed at beats me.
And how would Ortaega know what his amp output is.
You are approaching the whole calculation wrongly.

A UPS will definitely be more expensive than an inverter.
And while I agree that a 650W UPS or Inverter will suffice to drive Ortaega's system, don't forget that watts is volts x amperes and has no relation to time. So 650W is a momentary value, how long it can be supplied will be dependent on the size of the battery pack attached.

If I was in Ortaega's shoes i would go for a cheap 500-800W inverter (about R450-800) and a 50Ahr deep cycle battery (around R1100-). I assume he (like most people) has a (smart) battery charger, if not that is another item which will be needed. And then some wiring and small stuff....

Sorry if this post seems a bit harsh, but as an electrical engineer I have a problem with people posting what (at best) are 'opinions from Utopia which are strangers in the field of ectrical engineering' and other members take them to be guided by.