Electronic timers

Discussion in 'General Equipment discussion' started by Zoom, Mar 15, 2010.

  1. Zoom

    Zoom Retired Moderator

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    We all have them on our tanks. I would say 9 out of 10 of us have some sort of timer device governing how long our lights stay on in our tanks. Usually we would have them on either for a short period in the morning, followed by a lenthier time in the afternoon evening, or have our lights only turn on around 10 am until the evening.

    So the timer is basically used for 2 reasons, (1) because we are generally not around to turn the lights on when we actually want the lights to turn on, and 2) convenience.

    But let me ask you this question... if you knew something could trip your earth leakage during the course of the day, and you only discover 6-8 hours later... would you want that something still operating in your house???

    The normal timer we all use looks something like this:

    [​IMG]

    It works on a principle that you depress little knobs on the outside. How this very basically works is the little knobs breaks the contact in the power, and as it turns, it makes contact at the right time, and turns on. The problem with these timers is that as the timer is getting closer to the on or the off position, the 2 contacts can get very close, and very often arc. The arcing is very often whas forces the timer to switch over to that on/off position, but there are times when that arc can, and will eventually, cause the electricity your earth leakage to trip. I've personally experienced this a few times with an oldish model timer. We once went away on holiday, and relied on a timer to make the lights appear as if we were home at night. The timer arced, tripped the earth leakage on day 1 or 2 of our holiday, and upon our arrival on day 8, we foud a pool of blood under the fridge, and an entire months meat defrosted, gone off, and blood stained throughout the kitchen.

    What would happen if this was to occur at 10am while you were at work. Pump off. Filter off. Tank off. You return after work at 8pm, and discover that your tank of discus has been off for 10 hours... not a good idea, hey?

    Yes, these timers are cheap, and yes, they should be tested against such faults, unfortunately I have experienced too many of them failing... and my electrician that works on my building sites was the one who explained this principle to me.

    This is the same one, but in digital format:

    [​IMG]

    I believe this works on a very similar principle in that a pre-programmed computer chip tells the switch when to switch on and off. I'm not sure if it is any better than the first timer. I have personally not had any experience with them. ALl I can say is that according to my electrician, these work on a similar principle, and should also be avoided.

    This is what we SHOULD be using:

    [​IMG]

    Apparently this is most definately the safest to use, and will almost never fail. A lot of them have a battery backup, so that it will not loose it's programming, or it's time.

    So you guys make the choice. We all spend a fortune on our equipment, but more importantly on our fish... I just don't want you to ever experience a timer failure because you were never warned!

    (And if you were to come to my house... yes, you would find I am using the COMPLETELY wrong timer. I am using the FIRST timer... on my moon-light. My theory?? Generally speaking I am at home at 18h00 when it turns on, and often in bed at 23h00 when it turns off... so I should hopefully see if it trips the power.)
     
    Gareth and A Bauer like this.
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  3. ACE007

    ACE007 VA-TI-KA-KI

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    I got this one with the tank. Power from a plug to the timer and up to my lights. Just a plain 24 hour timer. Digital

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2010
  4. Big G

    Big G Apisto Nutz!!!

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    So what exactly is that??

    G!
     
  5. Bufamotis

    Bufamotis

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    ace/ we had that type for our perimiter lights. worked well/ but blew out fast. probably had our amperage wrong. . i know the majortech one shown above as 'right' doesnt have the arc-factor cause it works with a relay switch instead of the turning ticking mechanism. i needed to get a good timer pair for my t5-MH setup. cant let the lights run from 5.50am when i leave for work. . .
     
  6. Gareth

    Gareth Angel Freak

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    Thanks Zoom I was looking at buying a timer at the end of the month now at least I know what to get..
    +1 for that
     
  7. Big G

    Big G Apisto Nutz!!!

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    But Zoom, I refer to my earlier question....

    What is it?? Where do I get one?? How much do they cost?? And how do you use one??

    It almost looks like a Trip from the fuse box! If it were, it wouldn't be practical to have half the house 'time out' just so I can control the lights on my tanks!! Haha!!

    Cheers
    G!
     
  8. OP
    Zoom

    Zoom Retired Moderator

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    Yes, basically it is similar to a trip switch... but you get them that are not necessarily for a trip switch box. The only down side to this is that you have to WIRE it into the wiring of your lights, and not a simple plug in device.

    I'm not electrician... not by a long shot... but this is purely the advice given to my by my electrician who I use on all my building sites. Ferryman is quite possibly correct in that it works on a relay principle... but just don't ask me what a relay is? All I know is it is the way we SUPPOSE to be wiring up our lights.

    I belive they're available from Builder's Warehouse... my brother-in-law bought one the other day, and if I recall, he paid under R200.00 for it.

    Someone might be able to validate that?
     
  9. Henk Hugo

    Henk Hugo

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    G - it fits in the same slot as a trip from the fuse box....

    i'm the process of moving all of my tanks electrics into a sub DB and then linking that to the main DB
     
  10. OP
    Zoom

    Zoom Retired Moderator

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    And that is most definately the right way to do it. It is NOT advisable to have extension cords, double adapters with more double adapters etc etc piled all into one plug. a 4mm wired sub db board with suitable plug sockets it what should be done...
     
  11. Henk Hugo

    Henk Hugo

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    indeed - at the moment my tank it bit of an electrical mess
     
  12. KiazerG

    KiazerG Sailfin Molly

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    Thanks Zoom, was about to buy a timer myself and will now have to rethink my strategy.
     
  13. Vis

    Vis Gerhard

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    I might be wrong here maybe somebody would know better but if you change any of the circuitry of your house, add outlets,lights or add a switch to you switch board etc it should be done by aquilified electrician or you would be held responsible for any problems.
    You might forfeight any insurance claims.
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2010
  14. OP
    Zoom

    Zoom Retired Moderator

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    This is very true. A qualified electrician would be required. Let me share some scary storied with you...

    9 out of 10 homes in SA have had some sort of electrical plug, light, lightswitch, external light, external plug added... usually by either the homeowner himself, or by a handyman. How often have you seen someone's garden looking so stunning at night with their green and blue spot-lights in the garden, and when you look closer the cable is (heaven forbid) speaker cable, or if we are slightly better knowledged, extension cabtyre cable, and joined with the plastic chocolate blocks, and simply taped with insulation tape to prevent moisture. For those of you who are completely in the dark, you first of all shouldn't be doing this yourself, or secondly, I beleive you either need to use norsk cable, or Twin and earth cable. This can be costly, which is why people take the cheaper route out.

    The joints need to be done with a proper splicing kit, which uses a silicon based epoxy resin.

    Now you try and sell your house.. Did you know SA law states that in order to sell your house, one of the things you HAVE to submit before transfer will take place is an electrical complience certificate. How many of your houses will comply?

    You know all these downlights that are in the modern house? WHen they first came out, it was possible to run multiple lights off a single transformer, (obviously the transformer would have been rated for x amount of lights). New law states that every single downlight has to have it's OWN individual transformer!

    Selling your house could become extremely costly if you have done a lot of additions with regards to electric works... so yes, i agree, a qualified electrician should be contracted to do the extra sub-board etc... or at the very least, consulted to give you the advice on how to do it legally!!
     
  15. Gert Combrink

    Gert Combrink

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    Yes, rather be safe than sorry! We all used to use choclate blocks and jumpers, as there were no decent multi-plugs or adaptors for the lights, filters and heaters, that came with a (now) normal 2-point electric power cables- in early years!
    The Db board timers were originaly installed in the empty slots on the db board (by electrician) for swimming-pool pumps; outside lights and garden lights (lightsensor also used) You can also build it in a suitable IP- rated box like the outside (plastic) plug-boxes. Let it be tested/certified by a Qualified electrician!
    Remember to keep drip loops on all the electric cables, as splashing water can be hazerdous to your health when it run down a cable, into a multiplug etc. when standing in your shorts, barefeet on a wet floor! I know, we get carried away-when working on a tank. Been there... done it, have the scorched T-shirt to prove it!
    Good luck! And I mean it!
    Gert.
     
  16. Linxie

    Linxie

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    I'm a teensy bit confused (as usual)
    Where do we put this device? In laymans terms please ^^,
     
  17. Gert Combrink

    Gert Combrink

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    You start with:
    1.wall-socket';(the one fixed in the wall) LOL...
    2.(moulded) plug of
    3.multi-plug; then other
    4. plugs for heater and filters on multi-plug; then
    5.timer (with a multi-adaptor ) and plug the
    6.lights in on the timer (or multi-adaptor)
    This 3-way adaptor make it easy for up to 3 lights.

    It is best to set the time intervals (and time!) before plugging the timer in on the
    multi-plug- as it it mostly under the tank, or in a cabinet. (limited space! for big head)
    The timer has a slide switch to override the timer, if you need to switch the lights on, or test the timer.
    The instructions ( I know most never read it!) are quite easy to follow!
     
  18. Linxie

    Linxie

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    Ohhh I think I'm having a blonde day today... I thought it had to be attached to the mains or something... so it's just "plug 'n play"

    HAHa thanks Gertjc :)
     
  19. OP
    Zoom

    Zoom Retired Moderator

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    The first 2 are plug and play. The "right" timer needs to be wired into the lighing system. It is designed to fit into the mains, but basically you can cut your lighting wire, and put this in between the plug and the lights, and voila... program the timier, and le tthe timer do the rest.

    How you put it together is all up to you... I was just pointing out the problems with the cheaper "plug and play" models.
     
  20. Bufamotis

    Bufamotis

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    here's a breakdown, basically its an electrically controlled on/off switch
    http://www.howstuffworks.com/relay.htm/printable

    i didn't use a db box for my db-suited switches, i wired them into the mains of the respective lights though, and then figured a way to fasten them inside my cabinet, will post a pic up in my tank topic this weekend for my timer wired contraption
     
  21. OP
    Zoom

    Zoom Retired Moderator

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    Yeah, I would also suggest just screwing it (TO THE INSIDE) of your cabinet.
     

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