View Full Version : Filtration material
They say there is never a stupid question, so I'll ask...
My Boyu aquarium has a submersible pump which sucks the water up, and drops it into a catchment area in the hood of the aquarium. In this catchment area is where I have my filtration material. The water first filters through a fine moss like substance, then through carbon chips, and then finally through a coarser moss type stuff, and finaly pours into the tank. (I believe the water pouring onto the water surface is what aerates the water, and not the bubbles coming up from the air stone I have put in).
My question is:
Is this the right material in the filter? or should I be adding other stuff? (I've heard people mention calcium chips/marbles)
How often should I change/rinse/clean this filtration?
Hi Zoom
See my last reply to you about the nitrate cycle at the end i put in a bit on the filter stuff..
Get rid of the carbon - IMO it should only be used when you want to flush medicines from the water.
The other stuff is fine just clean it about once evry month by squeezing it into your siphon water.. Thata all you need to do. Do NOT clean it in chlorine water from the tap as you may then kill off all the Good bacteria in it.
Fish Fantasy
20-07-2009, 13:56
Hi Zoom! I have a corner unit with the same filtering system, water is also sucked up by a submersabile pump and spread by a T piece over first the mechanical filter sponge the black one then through, half a bag of filter wool on each side (have 2 catchment areas) then through Eheim substrate Pro 1 ltr 500g on each side then through a thin white filter mat and finally into the tank in a light water fall. I do have a bit of Carbon about half a cup in each of the filters because my tank is slightly over stocked. Once i week i change the filter wool and give the rest a very light rinse in the water i have siphoned from my tank into a bucket.
Yeah, my Jebo has much the same setup.
Ceramic rings at the bottom (so it stays submerged), with filter matt on top.
Should I be changing 100% of the filter wool when I do, or should I only be changing 50%. I thought it was bad to change everything?
Change no more than 50% of your filter wool at a time and then I personally would not do that on a weekly basis, rather once a month in order to ensure that you have sufficient bacteria going at all times.
That's what I been doing. I actually don'e even change it... just squeeze it out in tank water once every 2 weeks, and add if necessary.
Was just curios, Fish Fantasy's comment sounded like she changed her's completely
Fish Fantasy
20-07-2009, 15:26
Sorry no i don't change all the filter media completely but you can change the filter wool completely once a week or every two weeks depending on the build up in the filter if the filter wool looks brown and green it's dirty throw it away it's only there for mechanical filtration not really for biological bacteria build up that's what my Eheim sustrate pro or bio rings is for(invest in some, good stuff) this cultivates the good bacteria in the many microscopic pores. The black mechanical filtration pads and white,green filtration pads you rinse gently in tank water in a bucket and put back in the filter.
If you don't change the filter wool the stuff that looks like cotton wool the water will become a little brown or green and the the filter will not be able to polish the water anymore, the small particals just flow back into the tank or clog the filter and the water builds up and the filtration process is no longer optimised.
Hi Zoom! I have a corner unit with the same filtering system, water is also sucked up by a submersabile pump and spread by a T piece over first the mechanical filter sponge the black one then through, half a bag of filter wool on each side (have 2 catchment areas) then through Eheim substrate Pro 1 ltr 500g on each side then through a thin white filter mat and finally into the tank in a light water fall. I do have a bit of Carbon about half a cup in each of the filters because my tank is slightly over stocked. Once i week i change the filter wool and give the rest a very light rinse in the water i have siphoned from my tank into a bucket.
Good to know you changed over to Substrat Pro...
Zoom, you should seriously consider getting some of the Eheim Substrat Pro in your filter with some type of mechanical filter media to remove large particles.
Fish Fantasy
20-07-2009, 15:42
No problem I have one so I know how to make it run at it's optimal level thanks to Dolphins advice (Sorry Dolphin) months ago i haven't had a days problem with it! lol!!!! and my fish swim around in crystal clear water like they are living in the Maldieve Islands.
Oh and it's a little over stocked too with no canister filter or sump! Impressive!!!!!
Best mechanical filter media for an MTS sufferer is batting - the stuff can be found in fabric shops - get the puffy one that is used for upholstery - cheap and very affective.
Careful about the source - don't want something that has been sprayed with bug spray or exposed to rat poison.
My mom is a quilter and has TONZ of batting... BUT the problem is that 90% of it is all treated against mites and bugs, so not suitable for tank.
Thanks for the advice Dolphin.. I actually have got Cermic chips, filter floss, sponge and Purigen in my filter, and have never had any problems with my tank. Nitrates, Nitrites and Ammionia levels are all at fish-lovers-dream level.
My mom is a quilter and has TONZ of batting... BUT the problem is that 90% of it is all treated against mites and bugs, so not suitable for tank.
Thanks for the advice Dolphin.. I actually have got Cermic chips, filter floss, sponge and Purigen in my filter, and have never had any problems with my tank. Nitrates, Nitrites and Ammionia levels are all at fish-lovers-dream level.
Zoom, I dont know what your ceramic chips are and the purpose it serves in your filtration setup but this would be the item I'd suggest you swop for Substrat Pro - in response to your original question. Noted that your levels are spot but you'll be amazed at the overall health of your tank with Substrat Pro. It creates a massive surface area and will ensure stability in your system. If placed correctly (ie no debris build up in it) you would never need to clean it and this would ensure continuous biological filtration. You then only need to clean out the mechanical filter media or simply replace it if its batting or filter wool... you have a serious advantage with the purigen in there coz thats going to help your current filter media to deal with nitrate, nitrite and ammonia....
Zoom, I dont know what your ceramic chips are and the purpose it serves in your filtration setup but this would be the item I'd suggest you swop for Substrat Pro - in response to your original question. Noted that your levels are spot but you'll be amazed at the overall health of your tank with Substrat Pro. It creates a massive surface area and will ensure stability in your system. If placed correctly (ie no debris build up in it) you would never need to clean it and this would ensure continuous biological filtration. You then only need to clean out the mechanical filter media or simply replace it if its batting or filter wool... you have a serious advantage with the purigen in there coz thats going to help your current filter media to deal with nitrate, nitrite and ammonia....
I THINK ceramic chips work on a similar principal to Subtrat Pro. It's basically where the bacteria grows. It is suppose to increase the surface area in the filter, and has tiny pores all over it.
Do you supply/sell Substrate Pro? Could you quote on (postage incl to JHB)?
I've read some conflicting storied on leaving Purigen permanently in the filter. Some people say because it cleans the water so well, the bacteria dies... your feeling?
I THINK ceramic chips work on a similar principal to Subtrat Pro. It's basically where the bacteria grows. It is suppose to increase the surface area in the filter, and has tiny pores all over it.
Do you supply/sell Substrate Pro? Could you quote on (postage incl to JHB)?
I've read some conflicting storied on leaving Purigen permanently in the filter. Some people say because it cleans the water so well, the bacteria dies... your feeling?
I doubt that could happen - it implies that purigen would create a semi-sterile environment and thats just not possible.
Substrat Pro 250ml is R65. PM to order.
Sorry Zoom for asking my 2cents but while we are on the subject. i have as you know a 3foot tank with oscars not to proud but thats that and i have 3 filters in the tank one hangover and two canister filters to keep the water clean. in my hangover the one that hangs on the outside of the tank i have a sponge and filter wool and bandage in the other compartment for my bacteria. after a week my filter wool goes a dark brown and i rinse it in the tank water but after 2 weeks the filter doesn't seem to filter the water that well so i replace 80% of the filter wool. is there any thing else i could do to not have to replace so much with out having to buy another filter?
Sorry Zoom for asking my 2cents but while we are on the subject. i have as you know a 3foot tank with oscars not to proud but thats that and i have 3 filters in the tank one hangover and two canister filters to keep the water clean. in my hangover the one that hangs on the outside of the tank i have a sponge and filter wool and bandage in the other compartment for my bacteria. after a week my filter wool goes a dark brown and i rinse it in the tank water but after 2 weeks the filter doesn't seem to filter the water that well so i replace 80% of the filter wool. is there any thing else i could do to not have to replace so much with out having to buy another filter?
Your guess is as good as mine. Maybe some other oscar people can help... I know Sauran keeps oscars... you could ask him for his advice. Maybe Dolphin could reply?
As far as I remember from reading, Oscars generally need VERY good filtration, cause they are messy fish
Thank you. I meant asking a question on your thread. i didn't want to be rude. I will def ask Sauron
Thank you. I meant asking a question on your thread. i didn't want to be rude. I will def ask Sauron
No worries Wito... it's not MY thread... it's a thread I started about filtration... anyone can 'interrupt'
Get some Purigen in your filter Wito - it'll help keep that water very clean :)
Thanks Vee will def do that.
Sorry Zoom for asking my 2cents but while we are on the subject. i have as you know a 3foot tank with oscars not to proud but thats that and i have 3 filters in the tank one hangover and two canister filters to keep the water clean. in my hangover the one that hangs on the outside of the tank i have a sponge and filter wool and bandage in the other compartment for my bacteria. after a week my filter wool goes a dark brown and i rinse it in the tank water but after 2 weeks the filter doesn't seem to filter the water that well so i replace 80% of the filter wool. is there any thing else i could do to not have to replace so much with out having to buy another filter?
Wito-zn, sorry about the late reply...
Please give us the specs of those filters - needed to advise you correctly...
Sounds like you've got some small filters in there with fish that create a heavy bioload and your problem is made worse by the fact that you've got such a small tank for them. Using purigen alone to fix the filtration is not a good solution.
How big are the oscars? What do you feed and how often?
While I wait for your filter specs, the first bit of advise I can give you is that you need to do atleast once a week water changes of 25% - preferably twice a week. Now when you do the water change, dont just drain out the water. You need to vacuum the gravel throughly to get all detritus out.
Fish Fantasy
21-07-2009, 09:18
Get some Purigen in your filter Wito - it'll help keep that water very clean :)
Sorry now i'm hijacking the tread. Do you guys think it would be ok to add purigen to my wet/dry trickle filter which has Eheim substrate pro in it, if i can how much must i use. I have a 3ft corner tank with about 285l including decor?
I added about 2 tablespoons worth to my Discus tank of about 400l with the sump included. The tea brown water has changed to crystal clear in the space of a couple of days.
Yeah, Purigen is an amazing product!
Fish Fantasy
21-07-2009, 10:09
I added about 2 tablespoons worth to my Discus tank of about 400l with the sump included. The tea brown water has changed to crystal clear in the space of a couple of days.
I have that wet/dry trickle filter with 2 individual compartments. Do think maybe a table spoon in each compartment or 2 table spoons in each compartment?
On the topic of filter media, I leave the ceramic rings in place and pretty much never move them.
The filter wool I completely replace once a month, or if it's not all that dirty I just rinse it once a month. As someone said it's mechanical, and shouldn't make much difference at all.
As for Wito's question, I'm also waiting to find out exactly what the two canister filters are, but I wouldn't even bother with the other little filter if I had one canister filter never mind two.
Purigen® darkens progressively as it exhausts, and is easily renewed by treating with bleach.
Bleach? For a fish product?
I have that wet/dry trickle filter with 2 individual compartments. Do think maybe a table spoon in each compartment or 2 table spoons in each compartment?
Just do it in a single compartment.
Ps Make sure its housed in something like a filter sock :bigsmile:. Could be a real bitch to remove if just added like that.
I replace filter wool at least once a week. If its brown/black, throw it away. Pretty sure its a Nitrate farm when it gets that bad. I also have well stocked/over stocked tanks though
Fish Fantasy
21-07-2009, 10:24
Ok I'll put it in one compartment only! I also have over stocked tanks so i'm hoping the purigen will assist with water quality even though i do water changes once a week and change my filter wool completely once a week and given them a refresher water change during the week.
So is this Purigen stuff much the same as the Ammonia remover that you get for the Fluval products?
Sorry now i'm hijacking the tread. Do you guys think it would be ok to add purigen to my wet/dry trickle filter which has Eheim substrate pro in it, if i can how much must i use. I have a 3ft corner tank with about 285l including decor?
You need to make sure the purigen is constantly in submerged in water...
Also use as much as is recommended for your tank volume.
http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Purigen.html
Purigen
Product Description
Purigen® is a premium synthetic adsorbent that is unlike any other filtration product. It is not a mixture of ion exchangers or adsorbents, but a unique macro-porous synthetic polymer that removes soluble and insoluble impurities from water at a rate and capacity that exceeds all others by over 500%. Purigen® controls ammonia, nitrites and nitrates by removing nitrogenous organic waste that would otherwise release these harmful compounds. Purigen’s™ impact on trace elements is minimal. It significantly raises redox. It polishes water to unparalleled clarity. Purigen® darkens progressively as it exhausts, and is easily renewed by treating with bleach. Purigen® is designed for both marine and freshwater use.
Sizes: 100 mL 250 mL, 500 mL, 1 L, 2 L, 4 L, 20 L
Why It's Different
Selectivity: Purigen® is the highest capacity organic filtration resin on the market. No other products can compare to its ability to clear haziness and polish water to unparalleled clarity. Unlike other products on the market which are simple ion-exchange resins, Purigen® is specifically designed to be an organic scavenging resin. When ion-exchange resins are filled to capacity by metals and other contaminants, Purigen® has barely begun to reach its potential. Purigen® generally ignores simple elemental compounds, having an extreme affinity for nitrogenous organics. The primary source of nitrogenous compounds in an aquarium is waste. Fish, corals, even plants produce nitrogenous waste. Purigen® removes that waste faster and more completely than anything else on the market.
Capacity: Purigen’s™ possesses enhanced capacity owing to its vast surface area. All other resins on the market are purely spherical extruded beads. These beads remain smooth even under a microscope. Purigen® is both spherical and macroreticular. It has microscopic pores that increase its usable surface area to many times that of a purely spherical resin.
Regeneration: Purigen® can also be regenerated. As it adsorbs waste products, Purigen® will change color from a pale blonde to a dark brown, almost black. Once it is exhausted, it can be regenerated with a solution of bleach and water. The bleach will literally “burn off” the organics that have been removed from the tank. Watch out for products that claim to be regenerable with a brine solution. That is the regeneration procedure for ion-exchange purposes. A brine solution will not remove organics. While such resins have a limited capacity for organic adsorption, a brine regeneration process only replaces removed ionic compounds. It does not destroy large organic molecules that were removed, which is the primary function of organic adsorption resins.
Directions
Rinse before use. Use in a fine mesh filter bag. Each 1 L treats up to 4,000 L (1,000 gallons*) for up to six months. Exhaustion is indicated by a pronounced discoloration of the beads to dark brown or black.
Regeneration: Soak in a 1:1 bleach:water solution for 24 hours in a non-metalic container in a well ventilated area and away from children. Rinse well, then soak for 8 hours with a solution containing 2 tablespoons of ChlorGuard (http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/ChlorGuard.html)™, Prime® (http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Prime.html), or equivalent dechlorinator per cup of water. Rinse well. For freshwater use, soak for 4 hours with a solution containing 1 tablespoon of buffer per cup of water (Discus Buffer (http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/DiscusBuffer.html)™, Neutral Regulator (http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/NeutralRegulator.html)™, or Acid Buffer (http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/AcidBuffer.html)™). Original color and full activity should now be restored and Purigen® is ready for reuse. Caution: some slime coat products may permanently foul Purigen® and render regeneration difficult. Do not reuse if odor of chlorine is detectable. In case of doubt, soak beads in small quantity of water and test for residual chlorine with a chlorine test kit.
Fish Fantasy
21-07-2009, 11:38
So what do you guys think maybe 50ml-100ml for my tank?
As far as I was aware you can't really 'overdose' on Purigen.
butcherman
21-07-2009, 15:46
more is better
Fish Fantasy
21-07-2009, 15:48
Alot of people have been told that it starves your biofilter i'm still skeptical about putting to much in the filter for long periods of time.
Alot of people have been told that it starves your biofilter i'm still skeptical about putting to much in the filter for long periods of time.
I'm sure if that were the case it would make mention of the fact on the Purigen packaging. No mention is made to the effect of removing the Purigen after a few days or anything like that. Only how to regenerate it. So I'm sure the concerns are not necessary. We keep our Purigen in permanently and have had no problems doing so. :bigsmile:
Fish Fantasy
22-07-2009, 08:46
Thanks Veegal, that's brilliant news! :) Over the weekend i'll go through and buy some. :)
Thanks Veegal, that's brilliant news! :) Over the weekend i'll go through and buy some. :)
You won't be sorry :D When the posts were made here about having to take the Purigen out I researched everywhere I could and scrutinised the packaging just to be sure so I'm pretty sure that it's okay to leave it in! Let me know how it goes :D
Fish Fantasy
22-07-2009, 14:30
Will do! Thanks a million! :)
Fish Fantasy
17-08-2009, 08:30
You won't be sorry :D When the posts were made here about having to take the Purigen out I researched everywhere I could and scrutinised the packaging just to be sure so I'm pretty sure that it's okay to leave it in! Let me know how it goes :D
Hi Veegal! I've had the purigen in now for 3 weeks and my tank looks amazing it's made the water crystal clear but I'm going to have to regenerate it tonight because it's black already! Thanks for your advice it's really made such a huge difference to the quality of my community water. :flowers:
Great to hear Fish Fantasy! Just remember when regenerating that you must you the original JIK (I tried with the el-cheapo bleach and it did absolutely NOTHING.) Managed to find the original, non-scented JIK yesterday so will retry tonight. And also don't forget to soak it in your anti-chlorine (PRIME) once you have bleached it.
Fish Fantasy
17-08-2009, 09:21
Ok i'll go buy some extra whitening Jik because i also went and bought the al cheapo. lol!!!! Thanks for the heads up!!! I've also kept my Purigen bottle so when I regenerate it I do it right the first time! :)
I'll cross fingers and toes for you that it works first time (every time) :)
Fish Fantasy
17-08-2009, 10:14
:) LOL!!! Thanks
And also don't forget to soak it in your anti-chlorine (PRIME) once you have bleached it.
Veegal, is that pure (un-diluted) anti-chlorine or is it water that has been treated with anti-chlorine?
The instructions mention rinsing it in a buffer solution after the dechlor solution. Why is that and is anybody actually doing that?
Oh...Oh... I just remembered my Purigen has been sitting in 1:1 bleech solution since Saturday morning.....
This Purigen sounds like an awesome product, can't believe I've never heard of it before!
How much should I be expecting to pay for 100ml?
Too much - No really it is expensive but is an AWESOME product and over its lifetime it is actually cheap - probably abou R180-00 or so..
R180 for 100ml? That's mad expensive, but I can see it would be worth the cost if that 100ml can treat 400litres of water and it can be re-used. I'll see if I can find some at Animal Kingdom here in Atterbury next month :)
This Purigen sounds like an awesome product, can't believe I've never heard of it before!
How much should I be expecting to pay for 100ml?
R180 for 100ml? That's mad expensive, but I can see it would be worth the cost if that 100ml can treat 400litres of water and it can be re-used. I'll see if I can find some at Animal Kingdom here in Atterbury next month :)
Whipme... it sounds expensive... but it was SO WORTH IT!!! I guarantee you even if it was more than that it would be worth it! I have a piece of wood slowly leeching tannins.... Even after 50% water changes every week, after 2 months I would have to do an 80% change to get rid of the tannins, cause it just got worse and worse.
After 12 hours the water was CRYSTAL clear! I would highly recommend it.
Chat to the sponsors here online... they might be prepared to give you a good price. (Shipping and handling is what might make it a bit more expensive.
Shipping and handling?
I've never been able to find an online aquarium shop in SA worth buying from...
Check out the sponsor section of TASA and contact them. I think Dolphin can help you.
This Purigen sounds like an awesome product, can't believe I've never heard of it before!
How much should I be expecting to pay for 100ml?
Trust us Whipme, Purigen is the best thing for water clarity. That is off-coarse if your tank is healthy, but the water just has a colour too it. If your tank has a malfunction (bad reading of tests), you cannot expect Purigen to be a miracle cure. It's main purpose is to clear water in colour (similar to charcoal removing medicene resedude from a tank...) Well, thats how I feel about Purigen.
I have found Purigen prices 30% more expensive from shop to shop. The best is to phone or just check the prices as you go around shopping.
Ferryman
17-08-2009, 19:51
hi,
Animal kingdom sells the stuff at R149 for a sachet - 100ml, and its R215 for 250 ml in a bottle..
Thats 150ml extra for 70 rand more, but without a bag...
50% price increase = 150% volume increase
if you do go for the bottle, they also sell seachem's "the bag" empty sachets where you can put the stuff in (i called today, stock's out for now),
otherwise take a stocking, chuck it in and knot it off, i make it two layers of stocking and works fine, the beads are REALLY small, so you need something like a stocking or "the bag" to hold it in effectively
i just thought i'd save a phone call, i was there three days ago, and called today about the bags
i want a bag cause i'm not sure the stocking isn't constricting waterflow through itself a bit, the water goes through, just slowly
I have my purigen in an undersized AquaClear mini, along with two sponges in the filter, just for extra bacterial growth
oh, and the bags are around 15 to 18/20 rand between the different sizes, according to whomever answered the phone, (i add that, cause i thought there was only one size for "The Bag" bags
From what I can tell it's used to "absorb" organics, so that's Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates. I've got high Nitrates, so it will solve my problems, and I feel that R150 to R215 is perfectly reasonable if it does what it says :)
I mean, I paid R225 for a bag of Seachem Flourite when I set my tank up, and my fish are easily R40 to R60 each. In that case it's an investment...
To get back on track with the topic of filtration media, would it be reasonable for me to assume that I can just stick this in my hang-on filter if I remove the stock standard carbon casette and sponge in favour of a sponge and some floss and a bag of Purigen?
From what I can tell it's used to "absorb" organics, so that's Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates. I've got high Nitrates, so it will solve my problems, and I feel that R150 to R215 is perfectly reasonable if it does what it says :)
I mean, I paid R225 for a bag of Seachem Flourite when I set my tank up, and my fish are easily R40 to R60 each. In that case it's an investment...
To get back on track with the topic of filtration media, would it be reasonable for me to assume that I can just stick this in my hang-on filter if I remove the stock standard carbon casette and sponge in favour of a sponge and some floss and a bag of Purigen?
That's EXACTLY what I did!
Ferryman
17-08-2009, 21:19
thats what i did with the little AquaClear as well
Okay cool, well come payday I'll be paying AK a visit and getting myself some Purigen, some bags, and some new sponges :)
Fish Fantasy
18-08-2009, 09:43
Don't bother with bags for the Purigen I just used a new cheap stocking cut it to size and it works like a bomb.
Don't bother with bags for the Purigen I just used a new cheap stocking cut it to size and it works like a bomb.
Absolutely have to agree here :D And one stocking will do quite a few tanks - just make sure you don't compact the Purigen too much.
Buying a stocking for R10 and buying a bag for R18 doesn't make much difference to me, and the fact that the bags are bleach-resistant and reusable, makes them the better choice ;)
Ah but with a R10 stocking you can do at least 4-6 tanks....therefore saving is up to R134 :D:D
Aah, the MTS is strong with this one!
So I have another question to pose to you all on this thread...
If Purigen absorbs Ammonia and Nitrites and Nitrates, won't it starve the bacteria in the sponge of the filter? And if so, how close can you put it to the sponge, and in which order should the water flow through your filtration system?
Fish Fantasy
18-08-2009, 10:35
Purigen doesn't absorb Ammonia,nitrite & nitrates what it does is abosorb excess fine organic matter in the water reducing the amount of ammonia, nitrite & nitrates the the bacteria produce when they breakdown the fine organic waste. There is no proof that purigen starves the bacteria.
I put my purigen at the end of the water flow after all the mechanical filtration has taken place so my bacteria can at least eat before the purigen gets to work.
I think this has been discussed in another thread, but to summarize:
From Seachem:
Purigen™ is a premium synthetic adsorbent that is unlike any other filtration product. It is not a mixture of ion exchangers or adsorbents, but a unique macro-porous synthetic polymer that removes soluble and insoluble impurities from water at a rate and capacity that exceeds all others by over 500%. Purigen™ controls ammonia, nitrites and nitrates by removing nitrogenous organic waste that would otherwise release these harmful compounds. Purigen’s™ impact on trace elements is minimal. It significantly raises redox. It polishes water to unparalleled clarity. Purigen™ darkens progressively as it exhausts, and is easily renewed by treating with bleach. Purigen™ is designed for both marine and freshwater use. This product is sold by volume. Cited weight is minimal weight."
In other words, Purigen removes nitrogenous organic waste, which i the exact stuff the bacteria are meant to break down as their food supply. So it WILL starve your bacteria if you have a lot of it and leave it in permanently. I don't know how fast it acts and there is not much documentation, but from what I've seen it can clear the water up in a day.
The idea is to leave it in your filter for a few days and then remove it. I think that permanent usage will severely deplete your bacterial colony, if not totally destroy it, as the food source dries up.
Regards
Lauré
Take a look at the link below taken off the Seachem forum site...
http://www.seachem.net/support/forums/showthread.php?t=2783
Fish Fantasy
18-08-2009, 11:47
Thanks Laure!
Veegal leaves the purigen in her fliters and i leave mine in and it's done no harm at all.
I know PLENTY of people who leave their Purigen in their filters with no adverse effects at all.
Hmm, that's what I thought might happen. But I'm willing to take the risk, because I use two filters in each of my tanks, that way I have a backup in the case of one of them dying for whatever reason. So I'll try out the Purigen in one filter and see what sort of results I get :)
Hmm, that's what I thought might happen. But I'm willing to take the risk, because I use two filters in each of my tanks, that way I have a backup in the case of one of them dying for whatever reason. So I'll try out the Purigen in one filter and see what sort of results I get :)
This is irrelevant. Purigen affects the water column, so the bacterial colony in both filters will be compromised, if indeed it does act faster than your bacteria. And I add this last part because there is no proof as to how quickly it depletes the water column of disolved organic waste.
How does it work?
"The pores in both materials provide bigger surface and nothing else.
The effectiveness of both does not depend on mechanical trapping of particles.
Physico-chemical forces (tiny electric charges) trap the particles. This can be roughly explained by using two magnets - the "+" charged side of one of the magnets attracts the "-" charged side of the other. But two "+" sides push each other away.
Iron for example is charged "+" (Fe2+ or even Fe3+) and if the Purigen beads are charged "+" iron will not be attracted.
The resin (Purigen) is engineered and made in such a way that the physico-chemical forces attract and "keep" only particles with certain electric charges. Resins can be "recharged" because of that - by mixing the resin with some chemical that pulls stronger the same particles that the resin absorbs. "
Furthermore, "Purigen's structure is such that it's greatest affinity is for nitrogen containing organic material. It also has a very small affinity for inorganic nitrogen (like nitrate) but this is dwarfed by the former."
Quote from Seachem: "It is not mechanical filtration. As far as chemical filtration is concerned it is not meant that chemicals pull out material but that there is more than a physical removal of material. Purigen is part of the chemical filtration genera. It does not work as an ion exchange resin would typically work. The portion describing the macro-porous nature tell you there is significant internal surface area for more adsorption. It helps control ammonia/nitrite/nitrate by adsorbing nitrogenous waste. The bleach regeneration works b/c it oxidizes the organics adsorbed allowing for regeneration or essentially the bleach reacts with the organics so they let go of Purigen."
@veegal - interesting thread there, but no evidence, right? Don't get me wrong, I am not against it, as I use it myself. I just think the intention is to use it when needed, much like you would with carbon, or any chemical filtration, for that matter.
Also from Seachem Tech Support, on the topic of regeneration:
"On regeneration, you use bleach to oxidize the organics from the resin. If you use a conditioner with an amine based polymer then that polymer will bind to the resin. Then when you soak the resin in bleach the bleach will potentially combine with the amine in the polymer to form chloramine which has the possibility to then be released into the tank when the Purigen is put back into service. If you use a non-amine based conditioner such as Prime this will not be of issue. Best suggestion, use a non-amine based conditioner such as Prime. Now, the problem of using an amine based polymer conditioner with Purigen only comes into play when considering regeneration. Otherwise, it is not of issue to its function other than clogging the pores that could otherwise pull oganics from the system. If you use an amine based polymer conditioner in the aquarium and want to regenerate Purigen at a later date then let the Purigen run for a while in the system to allow to polymer to degrade from the resin (perhaps a week or two but this will vary depending on the polymer). Using a product like Prime will also negate any chloramine formed during regeneration. One could just use Prime in the first place to avoid any question or doubt."
I think this was in reposnse to whether one could use any dechlorinator after the bleach treatment. I also still want to know if any of you guys dump the Purigen in a buffer solution afterwards, as recommended by Seachem. Why would you do this?
Regards
Lauré
Davidcti
18-08-2009, 12:36
R150-00 at pet masters in Boxburg for 100ml :bigsmile:
Fish Fantasy
18-08-2009, 12:51
I also still want to know if any of you guys dump the Purigen in a buffer solution afterwards, as recommended by Seachem. Why would you do this?
Regards
Lauré[/quote]
Good question! :)
I'm also interested in the regeneration. Of the people that have done it, do you do it with Prime specifically, or have you tried something like Sera Aquatan? I ask because I've got a big bottle of Aquatan that I use to treat my water...
Shipping and handling?
I've never been able to find an online aquarium shop in SA worth buying from...
http://www.aquariumsupplies.co.za/purigen-100ml-seachem-p-2862.html
Ferryman
18-08-2009, 14:05
i asked the guy at AK today, he said you can also soak it in Seachem's SAFE.
I haven't regen'd yet. need to buy orig. Jik, and i currently have a bottle of daro aquachlor, dunno if i can use that?
The best filtration material by far with regards to availability and cost goes to Floss and the like.
Ferryman
19-08-2009, 12:43
i dont have bio-rings, so i packed my cascade full of a blue-nylon type floss, and the actual cascade sponge thing, ant run a small aquaclear with twoo aquaclear sponges and purigen
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.1.10 Copyright © 2012 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.