View Full Version : DIY canister + heater
ok ive got a new 1.2, and im going to diy a canister filter for it, will it be advantages 2 insert a 300W heater inside the filter if possible. i will be making it in such a way so that the heater can be adjusted and easily removed,
its probably a better method of heating the water evenly without hot spots, is it?
all coments apreciated
Carl unless the cannister is transparent you won't be able to see, until too late, if the heater is sticking on the on/off position. I always feel more comfortable being able to see whether the light is on or not on the heaters - call me paranoid :)
brentnorm
08-09-2009, 16:14
Being paranoid has probably saved you from having steamed/boiled fish for dinner. I too prefer seeing the light on the heater.
Call me stupid... but if you have to buid a DIY canister to fit a heater, wouldn't it be easier to build a sump?
stormbringer101
08-09-2009, 18:17
Hey I would sugest building an internal filter 20cm and tank 100cm.you might loose a bit on tank space but an internal 20 wide by say 45 or tank width will have space for a good drop chamber where the heater can go , a chamber for filter wool ceramic rings and bio balls and a chamber for pump and 2nd heater. I have found that internal filters on tanks work just as well infact if you have messy fish like oscars even better as the food that normaly drops to the bottom can still flow into the side of the filter drop chamber...
I agree with Zoom I am sure it would be easier to just build a sump than it would be to build a Canister that fits a heater.... and it would boil down to the same thing anyway or am I wrong?
i picked up a 1meter length of perspex tube about 80mm inside diameter, i wil mount this 1 meter filter horizontaly underneath the tank, the heater will be removeble by means of using oil seals from cars, im still scheming about the complete design but ive got the backing of the universities enginering workshops and engineers, its one of those why the hell not try it projects. but im not woried about thermostats not working properly.
and i dont like sumps, and it doesnt tickle my creative diy instinct
can i maybe use a smaller wattage heater for a 250L setup than a 300W since the 300's are vere long, or maybe 2x 150W?
carl_p why not plumb your .08x1M tube over the tank at the back then you have no water leak issues or pump head problems. If you have a hood it could even fit inside it. Could even have a spray bar on the end for good circulation.
Sound like an interesting project - keep us updated
Hmmm... this sounds like it could be interesting... post pics as you make it.
carl_p why not plumb your .08x1M tube over the tank at the back then you have no water leak issues or pump head problems. If you have a hood it could even fit inside it. Could even have a spray bar on the end for good circulation.
mmmm will defnitly think about it, there is enough space in the hood but its one of those cheap plastic ones, i can actualy sell the hood for more than i paid for the tank and stand and hood, the hood alone costs 250 at Lucky fish in potch and i paid R200 for the lot:bigsmile:
Can you get hold of a second tube? Because then you could put your heater in a separate tube in series with the first one.
Just remember that you're going to need some ball valves and such to be able to open and service the filter.
Something like (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/detailed_image.cfm?pCatId=3627&large=/images/Categoryimages/larger/lg_905843_21264VZ.jpg)this maybe? (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/detailed_image.cfm?pCatId=3627&large=/images/Categoryimages/larger/lg_905843_21264VZ.jpg)
Just remember aswell if you going to be putting things in your hood that lights still need to fit in and to not block light
rogerrabbit
09-09-2009, 12:55
Hi Carl
Are you planning on doing mechanical filtering or bio filtering or both in your filter? Remember preferably a bio filter you do not want to disturb often. Also what a lot of guys that make DIY filters forget is that the bacteria is light sensitive, So if you have a see through tube filled with bio balls, the first 1-2 cm from the outside inwards will not harbor any bacteria, most likely in wil overgrow with algae and create flow problems in the rest of the media.
That brings another thing to mind a bio-filter has an optimum flow rate per surface area, so with a thin tube you will have to take that into consideration.
Luckily all the info is on the net somewhere, and projects like that is always fun to research.
Keep us posted!
Something like (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/detailed_image.cfm?pCatId=3627&large=/images/Categoryimages/larger/lg_905843_21264VZ.jpg)this maybe? (http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/detailed_image.cfm?pCatId=3627&large=/images/Categoryimages/larger/lg_905843_21264VZ.jpg)
Wow dude, that is just awesome!
It's like multiple oil filters in series, genuis. Just not very easy to make...
Rogger Rabbit.. could you describe the difference between Bio and mechanical filters?
Mechanical means it collects the dirt in the water, like filter floss does.
Biological means it hosts bacteria to metabolise the organic stuff, like ceramic rings do.
Chemical means it changes the chemistry, like activated carbon does.
rogerrabbit
09-09-2009, 19:03
Mechanical means it collects the dirt in the water, like filter floss does.
Biological means it hosts bacteria to metabolise the organic stuff, like ceramic rings do.
Chemical means it changes the chemistry, like activated carbon does.
Ditto
Thanx
Tx Whipme... Then I have all 3....
Floss over ceramic rings, filtering through Purigen.
ok weve droped the perspex tube, will be going with 110mm pvc pipe, got the end screw caps today, aswell as the oilseal that snugly takes a 300W heater. its going to be 1100mm long, its not going to fit under the hood. tomorow the perspex plate will be lasercut at the university to house the oil seal, will start construction tomorow, take pics and post some time over the weekend.
the heater is 350mm long, so there will be 750mm length of tubing to use as filtration, it will be mechanical aswell as bio filtration by means of filterfloss (will be using batting) and plastic pot sponges for the bio filtration, theyve actualy got the largest surface area for bacteria growth for the price, and will be using a 850L per Hour fontain pump,
check this thread over the weekend for update, hope it doesn't leak to much
Sounds good ... the nice thing about above the tank .. leaks are spray bars by design.
Q: What is "plastic pot sponges"
Warning: Antidotal
Can you add a sponge to the fountain pump in take ... that should cut back on cleaning of the tube. I think a design like this should allow you to run the filter for +3 months without cleaning. (Not sure why but if the filtration is outside the tank it seems to work better for longer)
plastic pot sponges are those plastic ones used to "skuur die pot mee" almost like those metal golden ones but only plastid they cost around R6 for 12 in a pack at the Crazy store,
the filters design became to long and will be positioned underneath the tank,
ok on the pump, u can use a inline fountain pump and then buy a air sponge filter (R40 for a double sponge) and modify that so that the water is sucked up via the sponge and then to the filter, u will then never even need to open that filter since the mechanical filtration is in the sponge in the tank, or u can use a normal fountain pump that is situated in the tank, with a small sponge infront of the intake impeller, but its not that efective, im going to try and mary a normal submersible pump to the one end of the filter with pratley puttey (the miracle silution) or will leave the pump in the tank, and use a sponge on the intake in the tank.
""skuur die pot mee" OK got it ... be sure they do not have anti-bacterial stuff add in the sponge.
Pitty about the design being to long, now you could have head issues.
those sponges are way to cheap to have any anti-bacterial issues,
The pot sponges you're talking about are called pot scourers ;)
As for the air filter sponges, I'm assuming you mean those grey cylindrical ones with the grooves in them?
I'm using one on the intake of my DIY cannister filter and I haven't had to open the filter since I started it up like 6 months ago.
As for the pump, I'd recommend having it removable, so that if it dies or you need to change it for whatever reason, you don't have to hack your filter apart.
I hope you take LOTS of photos of all this, sounds like an awesome project
Just a simple question, would having the heater in the filter make the heater work more?? My logic tells me that there will be a fairl constant supply of colder water over the heater, thus making it stay on for longer periods of time.
Not necessarily...
The water should approach an equilibrium, like in a water cooling system on a computer.
If the flow rate was really really slow then it might keep the heater on for longer,
but then you would have hot and cold spots in the tank as well.
That's why they say you should always put your heater in an area of the tank that gets enough flow.
rogerrabbit
11-09-2009, 12:05
Carl, sorry to go off topic here, you a student in Potch and your avatar is a caracal, any connection here?
Back on topic, there is usually less wear and tear on the pump if it gets restricted on the outlet side versus the inlet side. In other words if you can force the water through your mechanical filter after the pump it will be better on the pump, but then again all the cr@p is chopped finer by the pump impeller so you need more or better mechanical filter.
...but then again all the cr@p is chopped finer by the pump impeller so you need more or better mechanical filter.
That's so true, I never thought of it that way!
So the thing to consider here is that pre-pump mechanical filtration should reduce the need for multiple levels of mechanical filtration.
no theres no conection between my avatar and one of of hostels on campus, but i am a student.
will post all the pics tomorow
heres the first ones
next ones
some more
final one
Ferryman
13-09-2009, 18:19
looks very interesting
first pic is top view of the cap with the oil seal for the heater the water will also enter at this cap,
no2: inside view of oilseal with perspex to hold it in place with silicone.
No3:pump married to cap with trusty silicone,
no4:inside view of cap and impeller of pump
No5:heater and oilseal
No6:heater and oilseal outside view
No7: total view of filter water enters on the heater side and exit on the pump side, theres about 350mm of no filter materiaal at the heater side and then another 350mm of filter floss and then the rest is pot scourers(6 packets)
No8: view of heater again, u can pull it out half way to see if light is on or to adjust the temp without any leaks.
no9+10: aditionals
"u can pull it out half way to see if light is on or to adjust the temp without any leaks." You've tried this while the water temp is > 23?
Looks good - let the silicone sit for a few days.
Next model make it a foot shorter - then the pump and plumbing can rest on the bottom supports without protruding.
BTW does that pump not have a requirement that is stays submerged or can you hang it out like that? - Check the box.
Ferryman
13-09-2009, 18:54
pump looks like a wet/dry model.
If the intake and outlet is separated like that, and allows for screw on connection to the inlet, it usually can stay outside...
I likeeeeee this looks like a fun project
Looks Awesome so when are you making one for me...heheheheh
yes u can pul it out half way to check the temp setting and that the light is on
well theres not a big difference between the wet and dry model pumps so i think it will be ok outside the water, and water is running thru it constantly at 26deg to cool it partly
will make the next filter in 2 pieces that will be connected with plumbing to minimize the lenth but that will make it more expensive, because the srew on end caps are R65 each, thats about the most expensive part on the project except for the heater that was R150
the oil seal ring was bought at a hydraulics shop
Hey Carl the is a pet shop in Orkney that sell that heater at R100 Pm me if you want to know the places name.
But that thing of pulling the heater out to check if it's running is quite likely to end in tears... The glass could shatter if it comes in contact with air while it's hot.
Otherwise it looks like an awesome project. You just need some ball valves and maybe some way of disconnecting it from your inlet and outlet pipe for when you want to open the filter up or move it.
And you might find that your pipes go black/brown from algae on the inside. Mine did that, which would explain why they use black pipes on all the external canister filters.
I'm still not quite sure about one thing though, how do the end caps screw on and off? Are they 2-part with thread and cap that you glue onto the pipe? Or did you have to thread the pipe yourself?
I'm still not quite sure about one thing though, how do the end caps screw on and off? Are they 2-part with thread and cap that you glue onto the pipe? jip
go to any plumbing or hardware store and check for the 110mm marley end caps, they are 2-part, the one part glues on with pvc weld and the cap screws on
nice looking filter , is the sillicon holding on the Pvc? which silicon did u use?
I thought it might be a 2 part end cap, thanks for clarifying :)
This project really has limitless potential, you could pretty much build a series of these under your tank to give you as much filtration as you want. Provided of course that you can find the expensive bits for cheap enough.
well a proper canister is going to cost more than R1000 this 1.1meter canister costed less than R400, for a R1000 i will build a filter able to do anything wanted with filtration,
why do we still bother to buy canisters if we can diy them, the hoses just doesnt look as good as a shop one, and almost everything is replaceble on the filter,
what do u do when a R1000 canister filter pump packs up? mine i just replace for R50 from senwes.
nice looking filter , is the sillicon holding on the Pvc? which silicon did u use?
normal marine silicone, its stil holding on, well they asemble our tanks with silicone, and glass is alot smoother than pvc, and silicone clings to almost anything except saliva, thats the best way to smooth it out and not sticking on your fingers:p
The idea you have there is awesome dude. Am I correct in saying you rely on gravity to bring water down, and pump back up?
If the power goes off, is the system fail safe that it won't drain the tank?
I'm thinking of a few of these connected in series each having different filtration material. Can you imagine how effective this system will work!
I've been thinking about it now, and I can't see how you're keeping the media separate, have you made trays or inserts?
And why filter floss in the first stage? Because it doesn't work very well for biological filtration, it's purely mechanical. Surely you'd want to keep maintenance down to a minimum by doing the mechanical filtration before the water gets to your canister?
the filter floss is just a precaution since theres enough space for it, the mechanical filtration is inside the tank, but on my other canister filter i made, i only cleaned it after 4months and the filter floss wasnt that dirty inside there is no mechanical filtration inside the tank,
theres nothing keeping the media apart because theres no need for it, but u can ad plastic mesh between the media if u use something like ceramic rings etc, just make sure it doesnt restrict the water flow. the pot scourers is thightly packed inside and stays in place
Carl
Can you confirm if this is still in action? Or have you packed it up and gone the purchased canister filter route?
zoom, it stil works like magic on my 1.2m, i have just slightly altered the design,
i have replaced the 800liter per hour pump that was glued to the one end cap because it was a el cheapo R50 model.
the end cap was replaced with a new one with a normal 15mm straight pipe fitting glued to it with hose conected to that and a new R200 1000 L/H inline pump installed in the hose.
on the intake side inside the tank i modified one of those air pump bio filter sponges so that the mechanical filtration happen outside of the filter. on the sponge filter were the air hose fits on i closed that of and where the bubles usualy go up i atached the hose for suction to filter now my water going towards the filter the "solids" is filtered out via the double sponge bio filter, now if i clean, i only clean the 2 sponges under the tap, and ive got one mother of a bio fitler. with internal heater
this design is working very very very well
I WILL NEVER BUY A CANISTER FILTER IN MY LIFE AGAIN.
ive got a smaller moddel fitted to my 60L aswell
SOunds good Carl.
Was just curious as another guy on the forum was interested in DIYing one, but I wasn't sure if you kept yours hooked up.
Now you gotta make some more, and sell them.
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